Feature Friday- biosurface peel part 3

Dermalogica BioSurface Peel Treatment Three 

This treatment was taken exactly two weeks after the last one - this time in the evening.

Interestingly, my skin was more sensitive during this facial. It may well have been that I had been camping for the previous three days and may have been less conscientious with skincare - as in not re-applying super sensitive shield spf 30 when my skin got drenched with rain.  Equally, I had been out in the elements that day - rain and strong wind howling around Stonehenge along with occasional patches of hazy sunshine.

During the treatment, Diana carefully monitors the reaction of the skin at each stage and it is treated in accordance with what the skin can tolerate on the day.  So, on this occasion, it was decided that to keep the number of applications of the active acid stage to three layers, as my skin was appearing much more sensitive.  I was also sailing in all weathers in the Solent over the next four days.  My skin was more prickly (heat-like sensations) than previously both during the treatment and the subsequent few days.  It was not flushed afterwards, just more sensitive on application of products on the following days. As mentioned before, there is no downtime - make-up can be applied two minutes after the end of the facial treatment.

Home care is critical with this deeper peeling, particularly in the first three days, and all essential products are supplied in the home-care kit. In addition to intensive moisture balance; the extra layers of barrier repair cream and the  super sensitive shield spf 30 are vital. Because of the sensitivity (historical) of my eyes, I do also use the ultra soothing eye serum for the first few days after treatment as they can be runny at the outer corners. I also used a booster treatment of Ultracalming serum concentrate which I use on the days when my skin may feel more sensitive.

When considering whether a client is suitable for the treatment, Diana will be happy to advise.  Some skins may need to be ‘primed’ over a period of a few weeks, perhaps addressing dehydration concerns or the need to use home care exfoliants before commencing the treatment - this is to ensure that the skin gets maximum benefit without any adverse reaction.  A patch test on the client is also carried out to try all the active treatment products, a minimum of 24 hours prior to the initial appointment.

I also respect that the treatment is recommended only during the autumn/winter and early spring - it is super effective but the skin is definitely more sensitive to direct sunlight and the elements.

Photo - also bitten in several places on the face by a random mosquito just to help the overall glow!!

Onwards, I am very pleased with the results from the first three BioSurface Peel Treatments.  My skin definitely feels smoother, some of the fine lines have reduced and the pigmentation marks, that first became darker as they came to the surface, have now lightened considerably. Result!

Diana has recommended that I continue with three further treatments, at fortnightly intervals, to complete the course.  This works well as my skin is clearly benefiting - I will have had six treatments over a period of 3 months and continue on a maintenance course of one treatment a month during the early Spring. Then have a break during the summer months when I am outdoors much of the time and return in the autumn for more maintenance!!

In the Dermalogica BioSurface Peel brochure - the following facts are highlighted and which I can emphatically concur:

While many clients seek out overly aggressive peels in the hopes they will reduce the signs of premature ageing, the side effects of these treatments, most notably inflammation, actually age the skin more by damaging the delicate skin structure at the layers associated with cell birth.  BioSurface Peel is especially designed to deliver all the benefits of a chemical peel without the scarring and downtime.

So exceptional results with minimal downtime! 

Skincare Saturday- Diamond Sparkle Body Cream

I was approached via linked in by Shine Like a Celeb and was asked if I'd like to try their amazing cream. I love anything new & am always interested about what is on the market. 

Today a lovely little package arrived with Diamond Sparkle Body Cream!! I love all things sparkly & glittery, and thought this was a new facial moisturiser to try that had diamond particles in it, got that bit wrong! There are so many new products on the market I thought someone had worked out a way to up the anti on adding gold to face creams... Luckily just as I was about to apply I thought I'd better read the literature that came with the product! There wasn't an ingredient list, but there was a list of key ingredients. 

This body cream has a lovely shimmer and subtle scent. There are four vitamins in this product which aid the consistency in being a medium weight moisturiser that benefits the skin whilst adding shine. 

Vitamins A, B, C & E help to rejuvenate, strengthen, soften and boost cell renewal whilst providing long lasting moisture. 

Vitamin E also helps prevent stretch marks! This cream was applied as a daily body moisturiser to a 40-weeks pregnant expectant mother. As you can see with this no filter picture the shimmery sheen on the skin is great in all types of light & skin tones. Whether you're going out for a romantic meal, clubbing or doing a final bump photoshoot this is a long lasting, quickly absorbed moisturiser suitable for all skin types. 

Makeup Monday- get the evening glow

  Warm glow & smokey eyes

                                                 

       

When going out in an evening the lighting is much softer and it is important to add more definition to the face so that the facial features still stand out. To recreate this look we've listed the colours and where to apply them on the face to get the evening glow. 

Foundation: Dermalogica Sheer Tint Medium- use all over face as a base

Blush: MAC Warm Soul- apply on checks & a touch on the nose for a sun-kissed look

All over face: MAC Gold Spill Mineralise Skinfinish- use with a large powder brush to highlight the cheeks, nose, forehead and jawline. 

Eyebrows- MAC eyeshadow in Corduroy- apply with an eyebrow brush to add definition to fine brow hair 

Eyes- Bodyography Black Walnut Eyeliner- apply a thin line along the lash line on upper lid and in bottom corner 

MAC eye shadow in Texture- apply with a 219 brush to add definition and accentuate smokey contours.

MAC eyeshadow in Retrospeck- use an eyeshadow brush to add shimmer in the centre of the lid and central corner of eye to create a wide-eyed effect

MAC eyeshadow in Shroom- apply with a 224 tapered blending brush to blend darker shadow and up along the brow bone

MAC Glitter Pigment Reflects Bronze- use tapered blending brush to add extra glitz to the centre eyelid and blend outwards into the smokey contour 

MAC Zoom Lash Black- apply several coats with a 205 fan brush to add thickness 

Bodyography Spotlight Primer- dab with ring finger under the eyes to illuminate & brighten

Lips- MAC Matte Lipstick in Lady Danger 

Smashbox Lip Enhancing Gloss in Luster- use to add shimmer and soften the appearance of a bright lipstick 

Skincare Saturday- MAP-15 results

At our Face Map the Nation event we had a skin scanner so client's could see the condition of their own skin.  It is a great learning tool for clients to see what's really happening to their skin.  One participant was specifically concerned with fine lines around the lip area from years of smoking.  The before picture was taken on the evening of the event before using any Dermalogica products on her skin. 

Before photo and after using MAP-15 morning & night for six weeks. This photo was taken without any filters on a mobile phone and it is still noticeable the improvement on the area.  The upper lip area looks more plump as the collagen synthesis is boosted from magnesium ascorbyl phosphate helping to firm and brighten the skin. 

MAP-15 Regenerator is an award-winning powder-to-emulsion product that delivers anti-ageing ingredients directly into the skin and has an accumulative affect, the more you use the product the deeper it penetrates into the skin and the longer the results last. White tea protects the skin against free radical damage, photo ageing, and tissue degradation in the dermis. Hyaluronic Acid increases the hydration levels in the skin and improves the elasticity.  Glucosamine also simulates the formulation of hyaluronic acid and collagen production, along with helping control age-related hyper-pigmentation. 

This highly concentrated product is best used as a spot treatment to target specific skincare concerns such as ageing around the eye or lip area.  It can be used on it's own by gently pressing a pea sized amount onto the skin until the silk emulsion blends into the area or it can be added to an eye cream or moisturiser for an overall firming or skin brightening boost. 

Feature Friday- BioSurface Peel Feedback Part 2

Dermalogica BioSurface Peel Treatment Two Feedback

Slightly shorter diary of observations this time!

Another enjoyable treatment exactly two weeks from the first, with Diana recording the level of sensation at each stage - some compliments the same  evening!

Immediately following the treatment, my skin felt calm and less activated, the texture was ‘velvety’ and I observed less ‘lightening’ in shade and yet the immediate improvement was more noticeable.  I experienced no eye sensitivity and the skin felt less tight on the subsequent days.  Along with the recommended aftercare, I did use the Skin Hydrating Masque on day two and it felt slightly tingly and again on day 3 and day 6 with the exfoliant.

The week following the treatment I was on the ‘annual visit’ to relatives and received a few comments about looking well - possibly biased with affection.  Also had the use of unaccustomed well lit mirrors and again I could see patches of skin discolouration - obviously coming to the surface but fade as the days went by - certainly a lessening of the long term sunspots of old.

 

Day 11 dawned with torrential rain and then glorious sunshine - had to re-apply sunscreen as could feel some redness could return if not careful.

Photographs are included - certainly felt confident to be happy with my fringe off my face - not done since my 40’s - lines reduced (not gone!) but skin feels proud enough to show full picture at 56! Smile is always important but, at last, not hiding behind a shock of an overgrown fringe!!

My close friend, a GP and honest observer, came to stay again and took the photo after three weeks (she originally took the first photo a few days after the first treatment) and was very impressed - now planning to have the treatment herself!

So on to treatment three - the final in my facial course to be taken at two week intervals.  Diana will then guide me as to a future treatment programme.

Waxing Wednesday- tips post wax

I have had waxing done by many people over the years and not many actually give out aftercare, it's only a reminder and even though I've been a new client they still haven't given me a reminder about what to avoid after waxing. So just a little reminder to all of those waxaholics out there, here are a few tips post wax to ensure you have smooth skin and avoid a contra-action. 

• Try to avoid hot tubs, hot showers/baths, sunbathing, and exercise for 24 hours after your waxing treatment. 
• It is best not to exfoliate the skin for 2-3 days after your wax. Exfoliate at least 2-3 times a week to help prevent ingrown hairs.
• Try to avoid shaving between your waxing treatments because shaving causes the hairs to become very coarse. Coarse hair can be difficult to wax, but it will also delay the benefits of long term waxing. 
• Avoid sex for 12-24 hours after bikini waxing because it can cause chaffing or irritation to the area. 
• Moisturise daily after showering to keep skin supple.  It is best to avoid highly scented products for the first 24-48 hours after treatment as the area can be more sensitive.  
• For best results have waxing done regularly every 4-6 weeks, but certain areas may require treatment more frequently such as underarm or eyebrows. 

Waxing regularly damages the hair follicle by repeatedly pulling the hairs out from the root, so the hair growth diminishes over time. After waxing hair grows back softer and can become lighter, so by following these simple aftercare tips it will keep you hair free and skin smoother for longer. 

Makeup Monday- bright eyes & lips

Create a bright day look with these 4 easy steps

1. Primer 

2. Blusher 

3. Eyes- brow definition, light shimmer shadow, lash filler line (thin eyeliner along lash line) and tight curl lashes, two coats of mascara

4. Apply bright lipstick 

Put it all together and you get a rosy, bright look perfect for a cloudy day! 

Feature Friday- Body Hydrating Cream

Another highlight for Dermalogica! The Body Hydrating Cream has been featured in Perfect Wedding magazine.

"This is great value as there's so much of it!  It instantly improves the appearance of my skin, so it's great to use just before you head out the door!" 

That's one way of using this body cream, it can also be used fresh out of the shower, as a hand cream, after swimming to rehydrate the skin, and as a top up throughout the day if you're in a drier climate.

This body cream is a non-greasy emulsion that is quickly absorbed into the skin, botanical oils that helps to smooth and soften the skin leaving the skin feeling hydrated and revitalised. It comes in three sizes, a 75 ml travel size perfect for a holiday or handbag, a 250 ml pump container for easy storage, or for the Body Hydrating Cream lovers a 473 ml pump bottle for great for daily use! 

Tan Tuesday- winter tanning

The seasons have definitely started to change and summer tans are fading after the Indian summer sun has turned to rain. 

To keep that glowing skin follow these three easy steps to having a natural looking tan through the winter. 

1. Exfoliate- exfoliating away the dead skin cells will give your skin a healthy appearance and texture because fresh skin cells are on view and the dead scaly ones have been washed away. There are several ways of doing this, but the easiest way is to use a gentle exfoliating glove or cloth in the shower daily. Swap your loofah for Dermalogica's Exfoliating Body Cloth or He Shi's exfoliating body glove and wash with a ph-balanced shower gel like Dermalogica's Conditioning Bodywash. 

2. Moisturise- moisturising after each shower is important to lock in moisture and keep skin soft and supple. There's a 3 minute rule that is the prime time after bathing to apply body cream for the best hydrating and moisturising benefits. During the autumnal and winter months there are lots of daily elements that zap moisture from your skin- cold weather, car heaters, and central heating everywhere you go. So it's extra important to put moisture back into your skin to help combat rough, itchy, dry skin. 

3. Apply a gradual tan- HeShi Gradual Tan is a fresh scented, light weight moisturiser that gradually builds up a tan. During summer months it can be used to maintain a healthy tan between holidays and sun exposure, but in the winter it's a great tool to give your skin a gentle hue of colour. By applying this moisturiser all over your body every 2-3 days it gives your skin a gentle glow during the winter months to help avoid the pastey, drawn look that sometimes appears when the weather turns dreary. 

Makeup Monday- mix your own mascara

MAC Lash base de melange and MAC pigment Teal 

Navy liquid liner, black zoom lash mascara topped with teal pigment mixed with lash mixing medium. This still gives the eyes definition with a splash of turquoise accents. 

The mixing medium can be combined with any MAC pigment to create any colour requirement. 

Feature Friday- BSP client feedback after treatment 1

BioSurface Peel 

One of my clients whose main Skincare concern is fine lines & ageing has undergone the course of the new Dermalogica treatment BioSurface Peel (BSP). She has kindly agreed to let me share her experience during the course and has been taking notes after each treatment.

Client Bio: 

I am 56 years old, have a conscientious skin care routine incorporating twice daily cleansing, toning and moisturiser. I use an exfoliant and a mask 2 - 3 times a week and regular use of eye cream.  I predominantly use Dermalogica facial products with additional Clarins products (mainly make-up and body treatment products).  I have an outdoor lifestyle and spend many days a month sailing in all weathers. I enjoy the sun, my skin is resilient to the elements and tans easily.  My main areas of concern are fine lines on forehead, around eyes and upper lip, and probably cheeks and neck as well - all in keeping with being mid-fifties!!

Treatment Feedback 

Wednesday, 17th September, 2014- Treatment One:

Appointment length - Approx 90 mins to allow time to complete form summarising client details, skin observations and overview of health matters.

Routine - as carried out by Diana:
Double cleanse followed by a prep solution which is worked into the skin and acts like a third deep cleanse.  The BioSurface Peel active preparations are then applied.  Firstly an enzyme solution followed by the applications of the very active solution - the number of layers depend on the skin type and regularity of treatments.  During these applications the skin is prone to tingling - which was monitored and noted by Diana.

The next stage was the decelerator, of a foaming consistency, being applied to calm the skin for ten minutes.  This was removed with cooling damp flannels, then the appropriate moisturiser and the sun protection care cream was applied.  Aftercare was discussed and printed Post-Treatment Instructions given.

Due to too much client participation/nosiness, I decided to sit up and look in the mirror during the treatment - not a good idea.  Got some solution in my eye - uncomfortable for a few minutes and may have led to the subsequent sensitivity. My eye area has always been a vulnerable area - capable of swelling in a reaction even from using incorrect nail products.  I did experience some sensitivity and a periodic sensation of dryness at the corner of both eyes on day 1 and day 2, I counter-acted this by using Ultra Calming Eye Serum just for the two days and the dryness balanced.

I had a social gathering in the evening, and a friend and family member each commented that my skin looked fresh and clear.  I thought it felt tight and looked a tone lighter!

Must remember to drink more water or even some water!!

Followed after care routine daily conscientiously - this is really important to literally layer on products from the aftercare kit, sometimes moisturiser felt slightly tingly on application.  Very quick and straightforward routine and ‘Post Treatment Instructions’ are clear and self-explanatory.

1. Barrier Repair cream
2. Moisturiser - I found I needed Intensive Moisture Balance morning and evening  (may need to buy more - after care kit size only lasts 4/5 days - or use another Dermalogica moisturiser (if it has sufficient moisturising qualities to suit your recently ‘peeled’ skin).  Sometimes in the first few days, and with the products staring at me on my desk, I applied moisturiser during the day also. Tingled on application on first 3/4 days. 
3. Super Sensitive Shield spf 30 as top layer (vital part of regime)

Day Three (photo) 
I exfoliated using Multivitamin Thermafoliant (in kit) and followed by Skin Hydrating Masque (in cabinet as use regularly).  Skin did tingle during and after exfoliation, but I did not experience any redness or flakiness.  Skin still feels tight after cleansing and before applying cream layers.

Day Five
Very sunny day - Although I did not lie in sun, just a couple hours out dog walking and wearing a sun cap - still could see and feel redness on top of cheeks and upper eyelids - reminder to self to keep re-applying Super Sensitive Shield spf30 several times a day if out in the elements.  Skin tingled slightly more in evening when I applied Intensive Moisture Balance - probably result of deceptively strong September sun.


Day Seven
In addition to the twice daily routine, time for another exfoliation - less tingling this time, although skin felt warm during and after exfoliation and used different mask - Multivitamin Power Recovery Masque.  I could now remark that my skin did look fresh and glowing - there is a reduction in lines on my forehead and around my eyes, but not so sure about upper lip.

Day TenThis is the day that the skin is expected to look at its maximum improvement. My skin certainly feels very comfortable and glowing.  No further home exfoliation treatments can take place for the next three days prior to Treatment appointment no. 2.

I have three sun freckles/‘liver spots’ on my right cheek and one on my nose which became more noticeable - I read in the treatment leaflet - ‘may also notice a temporarily more pronounced appearance of pigmentation as it rises to the skin’s surface’ - will watch for these to subside!!

Day Fourteen

Time for treatment number two.  Allow an hour and a quarter. Another enjoyable treatment - this time I have an extra layer at the active peel stage - four in total.  All with various associated tingles - all noted by Diana.  The treatment came with its next ‘after care kit’.

So after two treatments, the fine lines of my face have definitely reduced and the texture of my skin has improved dramatically making the whole complexion look fresher and ‘alive’.

So next report in two weeks - hopefully, looking more sparkling by the day!!

Client's Notes and Tips: 

- If prone to sensitivity - buy additional barrier repair as ‘kit’ size only lasts 3/4 days.  

- If time allowed I used either the skin hydrating masque or multivitamin power recovery masque every two days.

- There is no ‘down-time’ with BioSurface Peel - can carry on normal lifestyle with the exception of the day of the treatment to ‘avoid strenuous exercise or prolonged exposure to heat sources such as dry saunas and steam rooms. 

- It is possible to wear make up within 15 mins of treatment - I chose to just use eye and lip products for the first few days.  Interestingly, on day three I used a Clarins tinted moisturiser and the product just rolled off like rice grains - maybe from the concentrate of product already on the face.  Interestingly, with the same combination of base products - the Dermalogica Sheer Tint moisturiser was fine. Observation - not a sales pitch! - but maybe it is appropriate to use just Dermalogica products to compliment the BioSurface treatment.

- Throughout the first two weeks, I was aware that my skin had undergone an active and on-going treatment - much more than a few days glow and hydration as experienced with some standard facials.

- Not all Dermalogica ‘Expert’ Therapists incorporate the neck and décolleté in this treatment.  I agree with Diana that this is also an area that so often also needs attention.

Overall Summary of first treatment: 

Over a period of thirty years in the beauty profession, I have received all sorts of peeling treatments - some very harsh, on one occasion, whilst acting as model at a trade exhibition, my forehead was left with circular patterns of skin missing and unable to be in direct sunlight for several months. Other treatments experienced as they came on the market were tried, or observed, by myself but seemed unremarkable and largely ineffective.

Without hesitation, I would recommend a course of BioSurface Peel - the number of treatments as advised by Diana - dependant on skin type and desired effect.