Feature Friday- Gentle Soothing Booster

Dermalogica's boosters are formulated with the smallest molecular structure out of any of the product ranges.  They are designed to increase potential results of a current skincare routine and to help treat any skin conditions that are caused by climate, hormonal, or lifestyle change.

Gentle Soothing Booster is a concentrated complex used to soothe irritated skin, windburn, or sensitised skin. It contains honey to help bind moisture and hydrate skin and Raspberry Fruit to calm the aggravated skin. Ultra-soothing botanicals such as Calendula and Cornflour that help to instantly reduce inflammation.

This oil-free formulate helps rebuild the skin's barrier without leaving it feeling greasy.  It can be used in the areas of inflammation or all over the face.  It works best in combination with the Ultra Calming range, but can also be used before your daily moisturiser.

Feature Friday- Extra Firming Booster

Extra Firming Booster is a super-concentrated, rich, re-texturizing solution that strengthens the skin's structure and smooths the skin's surface. It contains key ingredients such as Horsetail and Protein Peptides that help to firm the skin. Tailored botanical ingredients perform a flash-firming affect that is visibly noticeable and helps smooth the skin's texture. 

Red Clover and Vitamin C aid in restoring skin suppleness and diminishing fine lines and wrinkles of dry or prematurely ageing skin. Antioxidants defend the skin from damaging free radicals and correct the signs of ageing on a deeper level. 

This booster is great paired with the Age Smart range such as Skin Resurfacing Cleanser, Multi-vitamin Serum, or Multi-vitamin Masque. It can also be combined or applied before the Intensive Moisture Balance to increase the effectiveness and moisture benefits. Apply 6-10 drops after cleansing and toning as target treatment or add it to your daily moisturiser.  

Waxing Wednesday- types of wax 101

Hard wax is used for small, course hair areas such as bikini, underarm and facial areas. Hard wax is also known as stripless wax, or as I refer to it as pick & flick style wax. It is used at a lower temperature than strip wax and is always applied with a spatula. It hardens on the skin and congeals around the hair and is removed in one quick motion taking the hair with it! 

Australian Bodycare melted hot wax pellets- individual use making it the utmost hygienic product on the market. 

Warm wax is also referred to as strip wax as it's applied with a spatula, roller or glide applicator and removed with a fabric or paper strip. Warm wax is suitable for all areas of the face and body, but hot wax usually makes the intimate areas easier to treat. Depending on the area and hair type warm and hot wax may be used to remove all the hairs. 

Tube of warm wax with individual applicators that are changed between each client to prevent cross contamination. 

Suncare Sunday- Sun Damage and Protection

Ultraviolet research shows that phaeomelanin may cause skin cancer.  It is the red pigment in skin, that is mostly found in the fairer or Fitzpatrick types of skin, red heads, blondes, blue eyes, freckles etc. These types of skin produce very little melanin pigment and more phaeomelanin, which makes these skins more prone to skin cancer.

People with fairer skins can burn in 15-30 minutes of exposure and sometimes it only takes 5-10 minutes.  The face, neck and decollate are up to four times more sensitive to sunburning than the limbs. Extra precautions should be taken for children and elderly as they are more vulnerable to heatstroke and sunburn with too much exposure.  Sunburn reaches its maximum up to twelve hours after exposure. 

Sunburn leads to DNA damage to the melanoma and increases metastasis, which increases the risk of cancer in the body.  Sunburn can be avoided with the proper protection and products. Sunscreens offer 100% protection from three types of cancer caused by UVA, UVB and UVC rays. It also protects the p53 gene, which is that anti-cancer gene that lowers abnormal cell activity. 

The immediate effects of sun damage are dehydration, suppressed immune system, apoptosis (skin cell suicide), skin thickening and weakening, and an inflammatory response. The UVB rays start to tan the skin and that is actually starting the skin's defence mechanism to protect the body.  UVA rays can cause skin damage at the dermal layer, which can take more in-depth treatments to repair and sometimes damage is irreversible. UVA rays are present in daylight, so it is essential to wear an spf all day everyday throughout the year. 

Long term effects of sun damage start to morph the cell shape and cause skin ageing.  The skin's collagen production starts to decrease and the renewal process is impeded.  Age spots and wrinkles start to appear and the skin's barrier function can be impaired causing more skin sensitivity when using products. 

A teaspoon of sunscreen is required for the face, neck and decollate to protect it from the ultraviolet rays for two hours.  There are many more products on the market with sun protection built into face and body moisturisers and makeup to try to help the public protect their skin. Dermalogica has 14 products with and spf 15 or above. To achieve the required amount to protect the skin, layering spf ingredients can help.  Apply a daily moisturiser with spf, a primer with spf and a tinted moisturiser or foundation with spf to ensure your skin is properly protected.  If you're going on holiday make sure you reapply your sunscreen every two hours to protect your skin against signs of ageing and sunburn. 

Feature Friday- Skin Renewal Booster

The Skin Renewal Booster kick starts anti ageing and is suitable for all skin types except for sensitised because it's aimed at improving the skin's texture. It helps target concerns such as scarring, pigmentation, dehydration or rough textured skin by speeding up cell turnover. 

When using this booster make sure you wear a high factor spf 30 or above and limit sun exposure during use and for a week afterwards and this may increase skin sensitivity.  It should also not be used in conjunction with any acne medication, waxed, or professional exfoliation or skin resurface treatments. 

This exfoliating complex is made up of several hydroxy acids to loosed dead skin cells improving the skin texture and reversing the signs of photo-ageing. Aloe and Cornflour extracts soothe and hydrate the skin leaving it feeling smooth. Vitamin A is an active anti ageing ingredient that stimulates new skin cells and improves the skin elasticity.

For optimum results a moisturiser or masque must be used over or in conjunction with the booster.  Apply 6-10 drops onto finger tips and apply directly onto the face, neck and decollate or mix with a daily moisturiser and then apply onto the skin. 

Treatment Thursday- BioSurface Peel part 4

Originally the treatment plan was to do a course of three treatments with this client because her main focus was on anti ageing and she had a good skincare regime already. The course of treatment was to target skin renewal and give the skin an exfoliating boost as the seasons changed.  

As you've read from each bi-weekly update the skin had a mind of it's own and after the first treatment darker areas of pigmentation were present on the skin.  It has been interesting to watch these surface and after seeking expert advice, it was suggested that the course continue onto a course of six to encourage the pigmentation to work it's way through the layers of the epidermis.  

Read on for the feedback and diary entry after BioSurface Peel number four. 

Dermalogica BioSurface Peel Treatment Four

 

After the success of the first three BioSurface Treatments, my skin feels definitely smoother, some of the fine lines have reduced and the pigmentation marks that first became darker as they came to the surface, have now lightened considerably.  Result!

 

So Diana recommended that I have three further treatments, at fortnightly intervals, to complete the re-surface!!  So here I am again.

 

Skin was not sensitive at all during Treatment Four.  So Diana opted to cleanse three times to prepare the skin for maximum absorption of the peeling agent.  Then the biologically active peeling solution was applied four times with five minutes between each subsequent layer - the time allowed is to facilitate the utmost effectiveness of the peeling stage.

 

Followed by a de-celerator stage which de-sensitises and calms the skin over a period of ten minutes.  

 

Diana commented that my ‘skin felt very smooth, and that there was a very obvious lightening in the areas of skin pigmentation’.

 

After each appointment, the client leaves with the BioSurface Peel homecare box containing five products

 

ultra calming cleanser

 

barrier repair cream

 

intense moisture balance

 

super sensitive shield spf 30

 

multivitamin thermafoliant to exfoliate the skin every three days - not to be used three days either side of the treatment.

 

Depending on the individuals’s skin, there is sufficient product to last a week plus.  The multivitamin thermafoliant is more than enough to carry out a home exfoliation treatment every three days.

 

So it maybe necessary to supplement the home care kit with additional:

 

Super sensitive shield spf 30 (check if client has some Dermalogica suncream product at home, minimum spf 30)

 

barrier repair cream if client feels skin maybe prone to ultra sensitivity

 

moisturiser - check what the client already has available at home as intensive moisture balance from kit will not last more than a week

 

Maybe also helpful to use a moisturising mask every 2/3 days such as

 

skin hydrating mask  or

intensive moisture mask

 

As my eyes are prone to sensitivity I also used

ultra soothing eye serum

 

and had some ultracalming serum concentrate available to use if I found myself, unavoidably, in outside elements.

 

It is an active treatment and the client is encouraged to make a note of any personal observations during the interval between treatments.  Diana will be in contact during the interim to discuss how the skin has responded.

 

I use primarily Dermalogica products on my face.  However, having worked in the beauty profession for several decades I do have an assortment of other reputable skincare products in the cupboard.  I did find, however, that whilst undergoing the course of this treatment - it is better to use just Dermalogica products on your face - altogether seem to compliment the treatment for maximum efficacy.

Altogether I feel that the skin looks considerably brighter and fresher with an added bonus of a reduction of dark circles under the eyes.  My skin is much calmer after this treatment and is positively glowing.

 

As a family, we are all now glowing with enormous love and happiness on the safe arrival of Oliver Matthew on Monday, 3rd November.  

Heartfelt congratulations to Diana and Phil and big brother, Alfie; and big rub for George, the family’s loyal golden retriever.

True to Diana’s professionalism, I enjoyed my fifth treatment this Wednesday, with 9 day old Ollie cooing contentedly in the background.  Joyful!

Top Tip Tuesday- Baby Salve

My new born son isn't even a week old and developed nappy rash because he would poo whilst sleeping & sleep in it for several hours. 

Each time I changed him he would cry- at first I thought it was in protest & then I realised it was in pain because his little bum was sore. 

I tried to air his bum for about 10 minutes between nappy changes- this does create extra laundry because inevitably I would be peed on & so would the towels covering him! 

Pictured above is his nappy rash 12 hours later and over 3 times better. I used a pea-sized amount of Speizia baby salve after each nappy change to the irritated area and could see the inflamed area visible shrinking with each application. 

It's obviously helping because he doesn't cry as much at each change and almost instantly stops when I put the Baby Salve on as it soothes the area! 

Makeup Monday- the natural look

Makeup Monday- natural make-up 

For a natural day look these six products enhance the natural features without leaving you looking too 'made up'! 

Dermalogica Power Rich- makes a great all over moisturiser when you're short on time and away from your regular skincare routine, apply all over face, eye area, neck and decollate. 

Mac Blusher in Melba- apply to the apples of cheeks and work up and outwards towards temples to enhance the cheeks. 

Mac Eyeliner in Photogravure Kajal- apply a thin line along the upper lashes to create a fuller lash line and add definition to the eyes. 

Mac Mascara in Zoom Lash Black- apply 2 coats to the top and bottom lashes to frame the eyes  

Mac Lipstick in Ramblin Rose- apply all over lips to enhance the natural colour and complete a natural glow to fair skins. 

Mac Gloss in Artful- this is the new range inspired by Brooke Shields, add a touch of gloss to add shine to lips. 

Suncare Sunday- Knowing the Equation

A recipe for SPF (sun protection factor) includes ingredients in the products, the broad spectrum protection and also the skin's natural burn time. Knowing your personal equation is easy...how long would it take you to burn in natural sunlight without protection?  For example, for a fair skin it may be 10 minutes burn time, so by adding an SPF15 to the equation the skin is protected for 150 minutes (10x15=150). 

There are two types of sunscreen, a physical which physically reflects the sun from the skin and a chemical which allows the rays to penetrate into the skin and the ultra violet rays create a heat sensation and it deactivates the rays.  For sensitive skins it is important to wear a physical sunscreen because this prevents the skin from reacting to the heat from the sun and the product. 

Buying broad spectrum (UVA symbol) sunscreen is vital now as the skin needs protection from UVA rays all year round.  There are three classifications of broad spectrum sunscreen- Low, Medium, and High depending on the UV protection.  It is now required by the EU that product ranges label their sunscreens with the broad spectrum symbol, protection factor and the level of protection. Low sunscreens are usually from 6-10SPF, medium from 15-25SPF, and high protection SPF30-50, and very high is SPF50 and above. 

What does that mean? A general example is that an SPF15 will protect the skin from 94% of UVA rays, SPF30 protects from 97% UVA rays and 45-50SPF protect from 98% UVA rays. Sunscreens block the UVB rays which are mostly from the sun, but it's the UVA rays that are important to remember to protect your skin from all year round. 

Dermalogica has thoroughly researched their ingredients and found an ingredient that enables a higher protection without the added chemicals. These plant oleosomes are found in the seeds of plants that carry natural vitamin E.  This newly formulated technology allows them to be mixed with sunscreens helping to boost the sun protection factor.  The natural plant extracts help to provide an emulsifying effect making the products non-irritating and creating an easily absorbed non-greasy texture to the product. 

Reading the Ingredients in a product can help you understand what you are putting on your skin and what type of sunscreen or block you are buying as that aspect isn't always clearly labelled.  

A physical sunscreen is good for sensitive skins, they still block the whole spectrum of ultra violet rays and the lack of chemical ingredients prevent the skin from reacting.  Look for main ingredients such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in these sunscreens.  Ingredients in a chemical sunscreen are often avobenzone, octinoxate, oxybenzone, and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate which means they can protect at a higher level. Sometimes sunscreens are a mix of chemical and physical protection ingredients which are usually ok for sensitive skins, but it's always best to test on very sensitive skins.

To protect the skin for two hours of sunlight a teaspoon is required for the face, neck and decollate and a shot glass worth of sunscreen to protect the body.  If you're on holiday it is necessary to reapply your spf every two hours and remember 'water resistant' sunscreens are only effective for 40 minutes in the water and protection should be re-applied once you're out of the water. 

Feature Friday- Skin Hydrating Booster

November's feature is all about target treatments for your skin.  The weather is changing and the same moisturisers and basic skincare routine may not be holding up to the cold, wind, heating, and everything thing else that comes along with the seasons changing. That's why it's important to listen to your skin to keep your skin glowing throughout the gloomy months. 

Boosters, serums or other highly concentrated products are designed to customise a day-to-day regime.  Dermalogica boosters can be mixed with moisturisers, masques and used on their own to adapt a home care regimen. 

Dermalogica's Skin Hydrating Booster is formulated with highly-active ingredients that help all skin types and quench thirsty skin. The oleosome microphage promotes double hydration when paired with Hyluronic Acid, which holds 1,000 times its weight in water and when using this booster the results are noticeable after just a few days. Panthenol, also known as vitamin B, promotes skin repair and aids hydration.  Algae Extract aids moisture balance and restoring soft skin and minimising fine lines. 

This product can be used all over the face, neck, decollate, and eye area to improve the barrier layer and hydrate the delicate skin.  Apply 6-10 drops after spritzing with your daily toner or after using daily resurfacer and before moisturising. It can also be used under or mixed in with the Skin Hydrating Masque.  Boosters need to be used with a daily moisturiser to maximise potential results. 

Waxing Wednesday- pre wax tips

Waxing is an effective way to remove unwanted hair. Waxing treatments vary from full body, to legs or more sensitive areas such as underarms, bikini, or facial waxing. Almost every part of the body can be waxed, and we do get some unusual requests! Regardless of the area, skin preparation for waxing is an essential part of the epilation process.

1. Avoid waxing when skin is more sensitive: It's best not to wax when your skin has had a lot of sun exposure, when you are menstruating, or when you have used aggressive skincare products (such as AHA or retinol treatments). Give your skin at least a week after any of these before you wax.

2. Check the length of your hair: The best length for waxing is at least 1/4 of an inch in most areas. For women's facial hair a different wax is often used and the hair can be shorter.  

3. Prepare your skin: 
Cleanse- Use a gentle soap to clean the area you want to wax. Avoid using very hot water as this may irritate your skin.

Exfoliate- Use a loofah, exfoliating scrub or exfoliating mitt and gently rub in circular upward movements to help lift hair in preparation for waxing and prevent ingrown hairs. 

4. Pain prevention: Take a pain killer, like Tylenol 30 minutes before your appointment if you're worried about pain. (Aspirin and Ibuprofen may not be the best choices as they both are known to thin blood.)

5. Moisturise: Use a water-based, or oil-free moisturiser after you shower to prevent skin from being too dry. An oil-free moisturiser helps prevent your skin from burning or abrading during waxing. Some companies that make waxing products, sell a pre-wax moisturiser made to prepare the skin for waxing, like Australian Bodycare Tea Tree range. 

Suncare Sunday- Moley Melanoma

This week I had a client in who's mole was crusty, discoloured and had changed shape slightly.  As a skincare professional I always keep an eye on my client's skin and moles because often they don't notice the change, and many times they are in areas that client's see or don't look at regularly like their back. 

The Rule of Thumb about moles: 
For more information visit Cancer Research UK

Shape- the circular outline becomes an irregular shape 

Texture- the smoothness becomes rough and crusty 

Size- if the mole starts to spread or change shape 

Colour- the darkening of a mole can mean that it is turning cancerous and could become a melanoma. 

If you notice any of these changes GET YOUR MOLE CHECK ASAP! It might not be anything, but it could be the early signs of skin cancer. 

"A great tool to download is the mole map...a handout for prevention against skin cancer." -Geraldine Schefermann (Dermalogica International Regional Education Manager) 

Keep an eye on your moles and those on your loved ones to monitor any changes that occur and pop in to see your local GP to have them checked incase it's the beginning of a malignant melanoma. Early detection or prevention is better than cure, so be aware of moley melanomas!