Feature Friday- Chemical Peel

BioSurface Peel 

What is a chemical peel? Many of my clients ask me that when I refer the the new treatment being launched this month.  A chemical peel is accelerated exfoliation which is damage caused by hydroxy acids, Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA), and enzymes.  This controlled damage to the skin is what helps to regenerate the skin helping combat ageing and pigmentation, and helps boost collagen which resurfaces the skin to improve acne scarring and ageing. 

This week I went on class at Dermalogica to qualify in their newest and first instalment of peels.  This type of treatment is completely different from all of the other facials that Dermalogica offer because it is a more serious treatment that focuses on the clients sensation throughout the treatment and is the only company to use a biophasic method.  The biophasic method splits the active ingredients using a different concentration of acid and enzymes to to target a host of concerns. During the course of treatment up to five layers of acid can be applied to the skin to treat as deep at the basal cell layer, which is the bottom layer of the epidermis.  

The healing time from this treatment is much quicker than many chemical peels on the market and leaves skin with a fresher appearance. Healing can take from one to four days and some people don't have any down time with minor peeling.  The best results are noticed ten days after a treatment depending on the depth of the peel.  Three days post peel the cell regeneration begins and changes to the skin are noticed.  Once this re-epithelialisation begins the skin may appear darker around pigmented areas, feel dry and be a bit flaky.  This is just the dead skin cells coming to the surface and once they are exfoliated the skin is left feeling soft and smooth. 

Picture 1. Before Treatment              Picture 2. After three layers of acid 

 Left: De-celerator application which helps to heal, repair, sooth and calm the skin. 

Right: Post treatment (note: no redness!) 

After the treatment skincare is very important and an aftercare kit is given with every facial to ensure clients are using the correct products and looking after their skin post treatment. Depending on the skin concern a course of up to six facials is recommended to achieve the desired results. 

Treatment Thursday- Age Smart

Yesterday I went up to Surrey to attend one of Dermalogica's Expert classes. The expert classes are a three hour intensive workshop and our session was about ways to improve ageing. In an Age Smart treatment the aim is to treat, repair, and prevent ageing through many factors such as skincare, lifestyle advice, and professional treatments. 

This week I had a client in who had gone with a friend to a facelift consultation with the top Harley Street surgeon. She came back with an unexpected response and experience- the surgeon told her friend that she needed to take care of 'the canvas' before having a facelift. He said that a facelift won't treat the condition of her (leathery) skin, that it was essential she have a chemical peel and look after her skin before she goes under the knife. This supports Dermalogica's motto 'Skincare is not a luxury, it's part of daily health- like brushing your teeth!' 

The goal of Age Smart is to treat the cause, not just the symptoms of ageing. With their indepth research and product ingredients Dermalogica has formulated some of the top products to help combat signs of ageing. Through exfoliation and hydration the cell turnover and renewal process is stimulated to help moisture reach the deeper layers of the epidermis. With ageing, the skin's natural moisturising factor decreases and through replenishing and restoring the skins barrier function it helps skincare products to penetrate deeper improving skin health. As collagen and elastin breaks down the 'healthy glow' becomes dull and it is important to help brighten and control the collagen production by stopping the free radicals from damaging the skin cells.  The Age Smart products are designed to stimulate collagen production and strengthen the skin cells to help repair the skin and slow down the ageing process. 

The skin starts to age at 21 and every decade the cell renewal process slows down further. For example, in your 20's skin cell turnover happens about every 20 days, in your 30's every 30 days, and so on. It is important to look after your skin at all ages because it's the largest organ in your body and one of its main functions is to protect you!